Liquid Landscape

Tuesday, December 06, 2005

Fremantle


There's a great little port city just south of Perth called Fremantle, which has heaps of trendy bars, restaraunts, shops and also opens up a thriving market on the weekends. It's a city which can be easily covered by foot, and this gives the best opportunity to check out all the historical sites like the Freo Prison, the Sail and Anchor pub, and the harbour sheds. Freo was basically a dump until the America's cup was held here in the 90's, and the influx of development has now made it a huge tourist destination. I see examples like this, and wonder if Winnipeg's Exchange district will ever reach it's potential like so many other historical districts have in cities all over the world.

Much like the rest of Fremantle, the prison was built by the convicts. Sophie and I did a tour of the maximum security prison back in July, and couldn't believe this place was still operating as late as 1991. The prison was shockingly outdated, with none of the cells having running water or toilets, and most of the cells only getting lights in the later half of the 20th century. The prisoners eventually rioted in the late 80's, trashing the place and burning most of the roof after getting fed up with the living conditions and the sweltering heat. We did a tour that gave a good intro to the daily life of a prisoner, from the cells, to headcount, then to the kitchen, and out to the courtyard. Our guide of course had to point out the cell that Bon Scott from AC/DC did time in. The tour ended with an optional viewing of the solitary confinement rooms and the hanging chambers. A second tour descends beneath the prison and into a network of tunnels carved out by the inmates. Most of the passages are half-filled with water, so you end up doing the tour in a canoe with headlamps on. What shocked us most, was how everything was simply left as is when the prison closed...there was coffee on the wardens desk, and documentation left in the Identification room. The archives building offers a service where they trace your family name back to a specific convict arrival in Aussieland.

The Sunday after my trip to Fremantle was spent relaxing around the apartment. It was a perfect day at 32 degrees, so I spent the morning snoozing on the beach while a surf competition was going on just up the shore. After a sufficient dose of UV radiation, I retired to my deck to watch the remainder of the Australia vs. West Indies cricket match. Anytime you can spend an entire day barefoot and in your swim shorts is pretty sweet.

2 Comments:

  • At 9:16 AM, Blogger Heather said…

    Totally jealous - but just counting down the days until we do something similar in Hawaii for two weeks. Yay! Glad to hear you get some time to yourself.

     
  • At 1:15 PM, Blogger Jeremy said…

    Great travelogue, Greg -- I love it. Any tour that includes some AC/DC lore is gold in my books.

    Interesting that Fremantle's successful transformation didn't give you more hope that the Exchange District might not ever reach its potential. It certainly has the raw materials for creating incredible urban fabric -- those short blocks, amazing brick/stone work, huge varied building styles, rich history, access to the forks and trails, connection to the commercial hub and arts areas...it's all amazing. It still has the feel of a place that could go in either direction, though. What are the barriers?

     

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